Category: European Field Schools

Review: Balkan Heritage's Fresco-Hunting field school

4/9/2015

* This review was written by Laura. She received her M.Phil in Digital Humanities and Culture from Trinity College Dublin, and is working on her MSc in International Heritage Visualization from the Glasgow School of Art. She worked as a volunteer with Balkan Heritage in Bulgaria from 2011 - 2013.

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Balkan Heritage's Fresco-Hunting Photo Research Expedition to Medieval Balkan Churches
LOCATION: Bankya, Bulgaria
AFFILIATIONS: New Bulgarian University, Sofia Photography School
CURRENT PROJECT: Students will take place in an expedition to document abandoned medieval churches/chapels and their frescoes.
STAFF: The field school is directed by Ivan Vasilev (MA) and Vassil Tenekedjiev (PhD).
LENGTH & DATES: The standard project runs from May 16 - 30, 2015, while the extended project runs from May 16 - June 6, 2015.
COST: 1259 EUR (Approximately $1,409 USD)
CREDIT: Up to 9 credits available
APPLICATION PROCESS: Apply online here.
DEADLINES: April 25, 2015

Tell us about your field school experience.

I attended the 2011 and 2012 “Fresco-Hunting” Photo Research Expedition to Medieval Balkan Churches with Balkan Heritage, where we documented at-risk medieval Orthodox church frescoes and architecture. Bulgaria (and much of the surrounding Balkans) was occupied by the Ottomans for 500 years during the medieval period (until 1878), and Christianity was more or less outlawed during this time. For this reason, Orthodox churches from this era resemble small, humble houses from the outside. However, in Orthodox tradition their interiors were entirely painted with frescoes and ornately carved wood iconostases which displayed the icons of the church for worship. Hundreds of these churches dot the landscape in western Bulgaria and eastern Serbia (as well as Greece and Macedonia), but due to their remote locations most of them are nearly abandoned and slowly falling into ruin. This field school makes an important contribution to Balkan Heritage by creating records (photographs, architectural plans and drawings, archaeological illustrations, basic condition reports, field notes, etc.) of these frescoes and churches before they are physically lost forever. As a recent art history graduate at the time with special interest in conservation issues, this field school was an exciting learning opportunity I never had during my formal university training, both in terms of subject matter and this kind of on-site, in situ field work.

Once or twice we went on literal hunts for these largely forgotten churches, traipsing around the Bulgarian countryside with maybe just a couple photos from the 1960s, a circle on the map and advice from any local we could find to guide us. It was exciting—a real treasure hunt! We did not always find what we were looking for, but the journeys reinforced the point that these churches are disappearing heritage and it is imperative to document them before they are completely lost to time.

The field school was based out of Bankya, a suburb of Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital, and most days consisted of field work at a medieval church site in the mountains surrounding Sofia. Field work took place at two or three church sites during each session and a few other similar churches were visited as well. On a typical day we would leave the hotel around 8 or 8:30 and drive to the church we were working at for the day. We would work all day and eat lunch on site. Then we would return to the hotel around 5 or 5:30, have a break and eat dinner around 7 or 8.

The first and last couple days took place at the hotel. Each field school begins with foundational lectures and training before work begins in the field. Not only does this provide you with important theoretical knowledge that underpins future work, it also gives you a good chance to get to know who you are working with in the field. During the last couple days collected data were prepared for presentations and archiving, and some digital illustration techniques were also introduced and practiced.

Each field school has a few free days where you get to visit significant cultural sites and museums as a group with additional time to explore on your own. One free day was spent in Sofia and the other was a day trip to Rila Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I appreciated being able to get to know both the lively urban lifestyle in Sofia and the tranquil beauty of the countryside throughout my trip. I learned so much about Bulgaria during my short stay, and it only made me wish I could stay much longer.

The people I met at the Fresco-Hunting field school, both the instructors from Balkan Heritage and my fellow participants, also made the trip exceptional. The instructors at Balkan Heritage are great because they are extremely knowledgeable yet friendly; they offer help without judgment and also respect participants to carry out their work independently if they are comfortable doing so. I personally know Balkan Heritage only partners with not only experienced experts in their field but also only those they consider as friends. This philosophy is critical because you spend your whole days with these people. Not only do you work together but you eat together, travel together, site see together, even party together! This was a huge benefit because everyone got along so well together, so strong camaraderie developed after just a few days and made the experience very rewarding on a personal level.

What skills did you learn?

I learned and improved on a variety of skills working with Balkan Heritage during the Fresco-Hunting field school from good practice photographic techniques for cultural heritage documentation to collaborative teamwork (an important professional skill to develop in itself). Other skills include, but are not limited to, architectural drawing (elevations, floor plans, interior/exterior features, etc.), basic archaeological illustration techniques (hand-drawn and digital), how to measure and draw architectural structures and features, basic site surveying, knowledge and techniques to identify and interpret Bulgarian Orthodox iconography, knowledge of ongoing conservation issues and threats, field journal notation, etc.

How were accommodations?

Accommodations are in a comfortable hotel in the pleasant town of Bankya. It is a sleepy, but pleasant town with a large picturesque park to wander around as well as a few supermarkets, shops, and nice restaurants within easy walking distance. By field school standards accommodations are luxurious. Rooms are shared between two people and have attached bathrooms. I never had problems with hot water or wifi.

Hot Bulgarian food is served at every meal (except on site when sandwiches and salad are provided) and salad, soup and dessert are also often included. Bulgarian food shares common ancestry with Balkan food including Greek, Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine, so it is quite delicious—especially because of the fresh, local produce in the summer.

I'm a vegetarian and never had problems getting enough good food to eat. I know they will accommodate other dietary restrictions as well (just ask them in advance).

What are the Pros and Cons of this Field School?

Pros:

This field school can accommodate any level of experience, so it can be a great introduction to field work yet also provides great opportunities for advanced learners to refine their skills and work with artifacts in situ.
Lessons and instructional materials meet the highest standards. Furthermore, I've never had a problem with anyone's English, so there is no language barrier than could inhibit learning.
Learning potential is maximized because you get to work directly with experienced archaeologists and conservators in small groups throughout each day both on and off site.
You learn and apply a variety of documentation techniques at each site.
It is an unforgettable opportunity to explore new lands and cultures with a great group of people. A variety of excursions are incorporated into the field school program, so you really learn about Balkan culture and its nuances and complexities first-hand. An optional trip to Istanbul is even available!

Potential cons:

Bankya is a quiet family-oriented town and it takes at least a half hour (depending on traffic) to get into the center of Sofia where there is good nightlife, cultural events, etc. Public transportation is somewhat sporadic and slow, so taxis are usually necessary to get into town (although they are cheap for European standards, especially in groups). Most days it is quite impractical to get to Sofia, although there are at least two or three group excursions into the city per session.
The weather in May is somewhat unpredictable and it can be rainy for extended periods of time—although it can easily be warm and sunny as well.
It takes at least 40 minutes (and could be up to an hour and a half) each way to reach church sites since they are in remote locations around the mountains outside Sofia. Therefore, there is less time to work on-site, but I'd say the Bulgarian scenery and fun conversations to be had make up for the extra time in transit.
The hotel occasionally hosts events, so I've witnessed a wedding and a high school prom event during my stays. They can get a bit loud, but it's all part of the cultural experience, right?
Some days can get quite long since occasionally data must be processed at the hotel after working all day on site.

Would you recommend it?

Absolutely. Not only will you effectively enhance your practical skills and gain valuable field experience (I've learned more during ten days with Balkan Heritage than entire semesters it seems like), the immersion in Bulgarian culture and history, the many opportunities to explore diverse urban and rural landscapes, and getting to know the people you are lucky enough to share these priceless learning experiences with are really what make your time with Balkan Heritage unforgettable. I've met incredible people from all over the world and still keep in frequent contact with a number of fellow participants. We still fondly reminisce about our field school experiences from several years ago. While you work hard and learn a lot, there is a lot of fun to be had. From my experience Bulgarians really have the work/play ratio figured out and are always ready with a hilarious story to share. I look forward to working with Balkan Heritage in the future, and I highly recommend any of their field schools to anyone who is ready step outside their normal comfort zone, get their hands dirty, and also have some fun!

Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

Simply put, the “Fresco-Hunting” Photo Research Expedition to Medieval Balkan Churches with Balkan Heritage changed my life. And I'm not exaggerating. I moved to Bulgaria for two years to continue volunteering for Balkan Heritage after my first Fresco-Hunting field school, and I am preparing to move back after I finish my master's this fall. I fell in love with Bulgaria after just a few days Fresco-Hunting and my fondness only continues to grow. I honestly wasn't sure what to expect from Bulgaria before my first trip, but I was eager to explore an unfamiliar part of the world, meet new people, learn more, and make a small contribution toward preserving Bulgaria's medieval and Christian Orthodox cultural heritage. I could not ask for a better place to achieve each of these goals and better people to work with. From the first welcome dinner—a feast of Bulgarian cuisine complete with traditional Bulgarian wine and rakia (brandy)—to the final goodbyes, the warm and generous Balkan hospitality of the Balkan Heritage team made me feel right at home, yet also eager to explore and excited to learn. Take a chance and spend a few weeks in Bulgaria with Balkan Heritage. You will not regret it.

If you do decide to go, you can't leave Bulgaria without trying banitsa (a delicious savory pastry made with filo dough and stuffed with feta-like cheese) at least once! Also make sure to stop for homemade yogurt made by local farmers during your group visit to the Rila Monastery (a UNESCO World Heritage Site tucked away in the highest mountain range in the Balkans). It is SO GOOD. Enjoy!

Review: Field School Pozzeveri in Medieval Archaeology and Bioarchaeology

4/9/2015

*This review was written by Adam, who received his BS in Anthropology from Ohio State University. He is currently working on his MSC in Paleopathology at Durham University.

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Field School Pozzeveri in Medieval Archaeology and Bioarchaeology
LOCATION: Badia Pozzeveri, Lucca, Italy
AFFILIATIONS: The Ohio State University, The University of Pisa
HISTORY: The excavations take place at the church of “San Pietro a Pozzeveri.” Founded in the 11th century, San Pietro was once part of a Camaldolese monastery that thrived during the 12th-13th centuries. This was due to its key location along the Via Francigena, a major trade and pilgrimage route.
CURRENT PROJECT: The 2015 field season will continue the work of previous seasons exploring the modern cemetery and medieval ruins of the site.
STAFF: The project directors include Clark Spencer Larsen, Gino Fornaciari, and Giuseppe Vercellotti. The instructors and area supervisors include Antonio Fornaciari, Francesco Coschino, Letizia Cavallini, Alessandro Cariboni, Alan Farnocchia and Silvia Testi.
LENGTH & DATES: This years field school will take place between June 22-July 31, 2015.
COST: For OSU Students/Ohio Residents, the undergraduate cost is $1,260 and the graduate cost is $2,316. For OSU Students/Non-Ohio Residents, or Non-OSU Students, the undergraduate cost is $3,230 and the graduate cost is $5,600. In addition to tuition fees, students must also pay a $1,800 support fee that will cover housing, meals, excavation, and laboratory equipment.
CREDITS: 3 credits are available through OSU. Non-OSU students may seek credit recognition through their academic institution.
APPLICATION PROCESS: Apply online at http://www.fieldschoolpozzeveri.org/apply.html
DEADLINE: June 1st, however applications are reviewed as soon as they are received. Suitable applications are accepted immediately

Tell us about your field school experience.

Overall my experience at Field School Pozzeveri was exceptional. Once accepted, I was put into contact with the Program Coordinator and began the booking process for my travels to Altopascio. I was recommended various airports to fly into (Pisa/ Florence) and reassured that upon landing a member of the staff would be there to transport students to the site. In addition, a Facebook page was created so that students could meet and coordinate travel with one another.

Upon the first day of excavation students were given an overview of the site history, previous excavation results and introduced to the staff. Students were then separated into the different excavation areas and met their individual supervisors. Each area supervisor has vast knowledge of excavation techniques and provides ample instructions for students new to archaeology and bioarchaeology. A normal excavation day runs from around 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. with an hour lunch break at the site.

Additionally students attend various lab sessions in that run in parallel with the excavation. These labs include cleaning, labeling and analyzing skeletal remains and artifacts, as well as survey and GIS recording. Lab sessions involve small groups so that students receive ample one on one attention for complete understanding of the material.

Lectures are also given once or twice a week depending on the weather. These lectures cover advances in archaeology along with various directors’ and instructors’ research.

During the weekends the field school is not in session, giving the students the opportunity to rest or travel around the surrounding area. Students are encouraged to take siteseeing trips to other cities. Altopascio is located in the heart of Tuscany so there are many beautiful places to visit and sights to see including the cities of Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Sienna and Genoa. The field school is separated into two terms with a midterm break from July 9-13 giving students additional time to travel to the further reaches of the country. A popular trip among students is visiting Pompeii or Rome.

Upon acceptance students receive a reading list that is required to be complete before arriving to the field school. The readings include information involving site history, topics in bioarchaeology, stratigraphy and GIS. There is also a midterm and a final exam to assess student’s knowledge and understanding of the readings and excavation techniques. Final grades are given based on participation in excavation (40%), lab exercises (20%), group discussions/ presentation (5%), midterm and final examination (10% each) and overall conduct throughout ones time at the field school (15%).

What skills did you learn?

The field school provides instruction in both bioarchaeological and archaeological excavation techniques. The focus is on learning proper archaeological theory and methodology in addition to some bioarchaeological excavation techniques. In the field we gained practical experience in archaeological methods including burial excavation/ documentation, restoration/ analysis of human skeletal remains, survey and artifact recovery techniques. In the lab we gained experience in mapping through GIS as well as proper skeletal data collection and restoration. The rich history of the site as well as instructors and directors who are leading researchers in their field provides an unmatched opportunity to gain hands on archaeological and bioarchaeological field and lab experience.

How were the accommodations?

The field school is located in the local elementary school. Students sleep in the gym and extra classrooms. There is a kitchen, dining and various social areas where students have full access to the facilities. There are two bathrooms (Male and Female) each with 4 separate showers. This was nice because students could get in and showered quickly and efficiently before dinner. All students are provided a cot to sleep on. Overall I would say the accommodations are great, there is plenty of space within and around the building. Another advantage of being at the local school is that you are within walking distance of the excavation site.

What are the pros and cons of this field school? Would you recommend it?

I would definitely recommend this field school to anyone interested in medieval archaeology and bioarchaeology. It is an unparalleled opportunity to get hands on excavation experience with leading research members of these fields.

Pros: The site history and archaeological experience is great. You have the chance to learn many useful methods of archaeological excavation and data recording. The labs provide further understanding and knowledge in the field as well. Over the years many extremely interesting artifacts have been found including a bell forge, gold lace (surrounding an infants head), victims of the cholera epidemic encased in lime, pottery, and various other grave goods. The staff is fantastic. They are extremely personable and truly want to provide further understanding of archaeology. There is little to no language barrier, all of the Italians speak English very well. However, I would definitely recommend learning some Italian for weekend traveling. The location of the field school itself is another pro. The Tuscany region of Italy is one of the most beautiful places in the world and I would definitely tell anyone planning to attend this field school to get out and travel as much as possible during free time.

Cons: There are really little to no cons to this field school. The main con that was brought up by students was the issue of working in areas with skeletal remains. Many students come to the field school thinking they are guaranteed that they will be excavating skeletal remains, however, this is an archaeological and bioarchaeological field school and it is clearly stated that depending on what area you are assigned you may not excavate remains. That does not mean that you will not work with skeletal remains, there are many opportunities such as lab. The lab supervisors are also always willing to accept help cleaning and cataloging remains during ones spare time.

Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

Altopascio is a small rural town about an hour and a half from Florence. Many of the people in the area do not speak English so there will definitely be a language barrier. However most of the locals are extremely welcoming and will bring fruit and water to the site for the students. Knowing any Italian will make the townspeople that much more excited to meet you. The owner of the local pizza shop may even throw you a free drink if you order in Italian. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all proved during the week and mostly consist of traditional Italian food. Meaning you will be eating a lot of pasta. Breakfast is usually light including a pastry and coffee at the local coffee shop/pub. Lunch is typically a sandwich or two plus fruit and something to drink (other than water). Dinner is usually the most substantial meal of the day including multiple courses. There will always be pasta or some type of carb, then a meat dish, and fruit or salad. This was more than enough food to keep me full throughout my time excavating but there is always the local grocery where you can stop and grab post excavation snacks and anything else you may need. The field school is also more than able to accommodate those with food allergies as well as vegetarians as long as staff is told of dietary issues in advance.

Overall I would say that this field school gives one a window into the Italian lifestyle of working hard, eating until you cant move and spending time with good people. It is as much a cultural experience as it is an archaeological learning experience. I would recommend anyone planning to attend the field school to be completely open to all new learning experiences and ask as many questions as you can think of. I have said it over and over that these instructors and site supervisors are leading the field and to have one on one experience with them is priceless. If you take a particular interest in something then don’t be afraid to approach and ask for further guidance and share ideas with the supervisors. This field school provides students with the one of the most well-rounded skill sets which will be essential throughout ones career.

Review: ArqueoExperiences Field School, Cerro de la Muela

4/8/2015

* This review was written by Francesca, a student at Montclair State University in New Jersey. She will be graduating this May and plans to pursue museum curatorial and archival work.

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: ArqueoExperiences Field School- Cerro de la Muela
LOCATION: Carrascosa del Campo, Spain
LENGTH & DATES: Sessions varying from 3 to 6 weeks in length will be offered in July and August of 2015
STAFF: Catalina Urquijo (BA) and Dioniso Urbina (PhD)
COST: Cost ranges from 1,290€ ($1,389 USD) to 2,490€ ($2,682 USD) depending on the number of weeks you attend; price includes room and board, transfer to and from the airport, daily transportation, excursions, and seminars.

Tell us about your field school experience.

Overall, I had a great field school experience. At first it made me nervous going to another country alone with no clue who else would be in the program, but immediately I felt welcomed by one of the directors, Catalina who spoke English extremely well. The program itself was definitely a peek into the lives of archaeologists, waking up at sunrise and working until it became too hot to continue, and no matter how much we complained I think everyone still had a great time every single day and enjoyed themselves.

What skills did you learn?

Aerial photography analysis, transects, excavation methodology, conservation, reconstruction, cataloging of artifacts and buildings, drawing artifacts and site plans, restoration with lime & salt extraction, stratigraphy recognition, community involvement public speaking.

How were the accommodations?

Originally the website advertised a beautiful villa that would be where we would stay, but upon arrival we were told there was some conflict with booking it and we were relocated to a house nearby in the town square. It was not as gorgeous as the original place looked, but it was still nice and convenient in a central location nearby multiple bars which was useful because two of them had wifi to use. (Where we stayed did not have wifi.) They had a laundry service come in weekly which was great because after a few days all of your work clothes will be pale brown with dust. The daily meals were very accommodating for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike, and there are a few shops in the small town where you can buy your own snacks or toiletries.

What are the pros and cons of this field school?

Pros: Amazing price that really can’t be beat. Including accommodations, daily meals, and excursions the total cost is amazing compared to schools of similar length. There is a bus that runs to and from Madrid so if you and your friends can master the subway lines, you can explore one weekend. The town gives a membership to the pool, so after work you can choose to siesta for a bit or cool off in the community pool. The locals are generally accommodating and friendly; our group was even invited to a cocktail party of sorts in one of the towns many caves to taste some homemade wine and make new friends! There are also a lot of artifacts within the site we worked on (Cerro de la Muela), so every day we would come to the site excited with what we would find next.

Cons: It would have been nice to have be notified beforehand of the change of housing as well as maybe a Facebook group created so we could meet and connect with those who would be attending our sessions. It would definitely alleviate some nervousness and be cool to speak with people you would be meeting soon. Other than that, it was as expected and a great experience.

Would you recommend it?

You cannot get a better experience for the price and it is absolutely great to gain close relationships with the attendees as well as the two directors of the program who really make the whole thing fun and educational. They are so knowledgeable in their work and the processes they teach you throughout the course, you will not leave without the valuable information you came for!

Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

The food will be very pork-based everywhere you go, so keep that in mind. If you attend, bandanas are highly recommended because the site gets extremely dusty and difficult to breathe in. Also, the school itself is located in a very rural area. The directors, Catalina and Dionisio, make sure to break this up with weekend field trips to different places which are always as much fun as they are informative, but if you are looking for a school where you can go off on your own in a very large city after work or on the weekends that is not possible. At the end of the program you can be dropped off at an airport or in Madrid where I recommend you spend at least a few days sightseeing, as I did, or taking a bus, train, or plane to Barcelona, as a few of my schoolmates did.

Review: Balkan Heritage Field School's Apollonia Pontica Excavation Project

3/26/2015

* This review was written by Matthew, a PhD student studying Roman archaeology at UNC Chapel Hill. Matthew received his Master's in Classics from the University of Arizona and BA in Archaeology from the University of Evansville. His research interests focus on Roman archaeology and architecture from the late Republic into the High Empire. Matthew participated in Balkan Heritage's Heraclea Lyncestis project as an undergraduate, and worked as a square supervisor and field instructor at last summers Apollonia Pontica project. Thanks, Matthew!

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Balkan Heritage Field School's Apollonia Pontica Excavation Project
LOCATION: St. Kirik Island, Sozopol, Bulgaria
AFFILIATIONS: Balkan Heritage Foundation, Apollonia Pontica excavation team, Archaeological Museum of Sozopol, New Bulgarian University
LENGTH & DATES: Session I: 27 June - 11 July 2015; Session II: 11 - 25 July 2015; Session III: 27 June - 18 July 2015
HISTORY: The first archaeological survey on the island was conducted in 1904 by the French consul and scholar L. Degrand. The results from the excavations were never published and many artefacts from Archaic and Classical Greek period found there were transported to France and exhibited in the Louvre. For approximately 100 years after that the territory of St. Kirik Island was used as a military zone by the Bulgarian Ministry of Defence. In 2005 the island was demilitarized and in 2009 the Apollonia Pontica Excavation Team lead by Dr. Krastina Panayotova restarted the excavations.
CURRENT PROJECT: This season, the project will likely include excavations at the top of the island, in the area of the Archaic and Classical Greek and Hellenistic temples, Ancient Greek Copper Foundry, and the Early Christan basilica and necropolis.
STAFF: The dig is directed by Krastina Panayotova, professor and head of the Department of Classical Archaeology, National Institute of Archaeology and Museum, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences.
COST: 1189 EUR (Approximately $1,329 USD)
CREDITS: Up to 9 credits from New Bulgarian University

Tell us about your field school experience.

In July 2014 I participated in Balkan Heritage's Apollonia Pontica project on St. Kirik Island off of Sozopol, Bulgaria as a square supervisor and field instructor. I had taken part in the project in the same capacity the previous year but for only two weeks at the beginning of August. Since the excavation season of August 2013 was such an interesting experience and had yielded impressive new finds, I was excited to return to the site to see for myself what had been done during the second two weeks of the previous August and to do further field work at the site. The site is an attractive one since the early 19th century naval academy sits above basilica remains belonging to Late Antiquity and remains from an Archaic period sanctuary to Apollo. Despite a ferocious thunderstorm and the consequent flooding of the excavations squares at the site for the next two days, the dig season was a success, resulting in the find of a large retaining wall perhaps associated with early activity at the site as well as numerous interesting small finds. The whole team worked well together and enjoyed their time both at the site and off.

While not at work the team enjoyed time to walk around and spend time on the beach at seaside Sozopol, which was founded as the Greek colony of Apollonia Pontica in the mid-late 7th century BC. Weekend trips took the dig participants to nearby sites such as the Thracian rock sanctuary of Begliktash and Nesebar, which was founded as the Greek colony Messambria around the time of Apollonia Pontica's foundation. Thus, the project's participants were able to get an idea of the broader history of the region as well as that of Sozopol. Those participants who had returned to the project for another year were able to take additional trips in the area, too, to other towns that started off as Greek colonies, Achtopol (ancient Agathapolis) and Pomorie (ancient Anchialos).

What skills did you learn?

In my work on St. Kirik I continued to gain experience digging and filling out field documentation. For example, this last season I gained experience in uncovering and interpreting architectural structures (in this case a perimeter wall) that stretched into multiple squares. My squaremates gained experience in digging and written documentation as well as in drawing and photo documentation. Although no graves were uncovered this dig season, in August 2013 I had the chance to help with the excavation of a couple of Late Antique Christian burials of a young adult and child. During the middle two weeks of that dig season the two burials were thoroughly and effectively excavated by my square mates.

How were the accommodations?

Accommodations for the team were divided between a guest house and military academy hotel in the newer part of the town. Most of the team was housed in the guest house, which was located only a couple streets away from the military hotel. The rooms were simple but nice, and most had small patios. The internet was for the most part reliable, and the guest house had a common room with patio on the top floor. Although at times our gatherings (ex. karaoke night) were a bit too loud for the landlord's liking (and she was sure to let us know how she felt), this common area was an enjoyable place to hang out after a good day of work. This area was also where most of the project's educational lectures were held. Our meals were provided at a restaurant up the hill from the guest house.

What are the pros and cons of this field school?

In general I was quite happy with the field school last summer. The site was always exciting for me to visit, and Sozopol is a nice little town with good restaurants, some shopping opportunities, and interesting cultural highlights (ex. ruins and a museum). I also enjoyed the weekend trips that I was able to take with the group in the area since numerous historical sites are located on the Black Sea coast.

As far as cons go, there were only a few that I noted. One is that the hotel's internet could be a bit elusive at times while another is that the BH team did not have the whole guest house to itself and thus had to be a bit cautious at night so as not to disturb other hotel patron, which curbed a bit the fun we were able to have on Youtube karaoke night. Another complaint of some participants was that the food at the restaurant we ate at for all our meals was often overly filling and at times a bit boring (as in they got too used to having some of the same dishes).

Would you recommend it?

I would certainly recommend this field school project to anyone who is interested in the history and archaeology of Bulgaria, ancient Thrace, particularly in the region's Late Antique and Archaic Greek periods. Despite some minor complaints from some project participants (which mostly regarded food), everyone from the project's three sessions enjoyed the project. As I mentioned before, a few participants from the August 2013 season enjoyed their experience so much that they returned for the July 2014 season.

The group in Nessebar.

The group at Begliktash.

Working on a wall feature.

Bailing out the squares after a thunderstorm.

Session 1 square presentations.

Review: Balkan Heritage Field School's Ancient Greeks in the Land of Dionysus Project- Excavation of Emporion Pistiros, Thrace

3/18/2015

1 Comment

* This review was written by Ashlee, a PhD student at SUNY Buffalo. Ashlee attended the field school in 2013, and will be returning this summer. Thanks, Ashlee!

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Balkan Heritage Field School's Ancient Greeks in the Land of Dionysus
Project- Excavation of Emporion Pistiros, Thrace
LOCATION: Emporion Pistiros, between the small towns of Septemvri and Vetren, Southern Bulgaria
AFFILIATIONS: Balkan Heritage Foundation, National Archaeological Institute, Bulgarian Academy of
Sciences, Pazardzhik Regional Museum of History, Septemvri Archaeological Museum "Prof.
Mieczyslaw Domaradzki","Pistiros" Association, New Bulgarian University (Bulgaria), Queen's
University, Department of Classics, Canada
LENGTH & DATES: Session I: 26 July – 9 August 2015; Session II: 9-23 August 2015; Session III: 26 July
– 16 August 2015
HISTORY: The ruins of an ancient Greek trade center (emporion) in the heart of Thrace were discovered
by Prof. M. Domaradzki in 1988. He started regular excavations and in 1990 his team found a stone
inscription (known as "Vetren inscription") that helped the scholars to identify the site as the Ancient
Greek emporion named Pistiros. Merchants from Greek coastal cities of Maroneia, Thassos and
Apollonia lived and traded there with their Thracian neighbors under the supreme protection of the
Thracian Odryssean kings (the biggest and mightiest Thracian Kingdom at that time).
CURRENT PROJECT In 2015 the Ancient Greeks in the Land of Dionysus - Excavation of Emporion
Pistiros, Thrace Project envisions further excavation one of the following site's areas: (1) the South-
Eastern sector - an area next to the fortification wall with higher concentration of cult artifacts and
features, (2) the Central sector of the site, where remains of the earliest period of the emporion's
existence are expected to be found, (3) the Extramural sector (outside of the fortification wall), where
archaeologists aim to collect further data about the settlement structure and history.
STAFF: Angela Pencheva, Balkan Heritage Program Manager; PhD student in Classical Archaeology at
Humboldt University-Berlin, Germany.
COST: Starts at 1,147 Euros (approx. $1,279 USD)
DEADLINES: Applications are accepted until all places are filled, or, at the latest, July 1st, 2015
CREDITS: Up to 9 credits from New Bulgarian University
APPLICATION PROCESS: Submit application and, after acceptance, make a down payment

Tell us about your field school experience.

I worked on a project called Ancient Greeks in the Land of Dionysos - Excavation of Emporiom Pistiros, Thrace. It is a classical Hellenistic site dating between the 5th and 3rd c. B.C.E. It is located in southern Bulgaria just outside the town of Septemvri. It seems to be a location where Greek merchants traded with the Odryssian kingdom of Thrace. This site was an important metal extraction location on the banks of the Hebros River. In antiquity, the river was much larger and more navigable than it is today. There was a fortification wall around the city that measured about 300 by 400 meters square. The site itself was only discovered after an inscription was found in a farmer's field not far from the site, which was once a Roman road. The inscription discusses the founding of the city and the only documented mention of the Thracian royal court.

The site itself is extremely influential to Bulgarian history and more specifically to for Thracian history. As a beginning student in the field of archaeology, the site provided ample opportunities to learn and experience different methods in archaeology. We spent time excavating on the site between 7:30 and 1:00 each day and then had nightly lectures on a variety of different topics. On the day off each week we were taken on excursions throughout Bulgaria to visit museums and learn Bulgarian cultural history. During our time off we found exploring the town, hiking into the local woods, visiting the nearby Hot Springs, swimming in the river, playing games at the hotel pool, testing different local foods, and making friends with the many stray cats to be quite entertaining. I really enjoyed my experience because I learned so much about archaeology, made some great friends, and established a love for the country of Bulgaria.

What skills did you learn?

Through the Balkan Heritage Field School I learned a large array of different field techniques and research methods. The program was set up so that we spent Monday through Saturday working at the site. Each day began early in the morning with breakfast and transportation to the site. Then, before we started our daily excavation would be briefed about new field techniques that would be used throughout the day. The rest of the day was spent on the site excavating in small groups under the direction of one of the Balkan heritage staff members and the site director. During the daily excavations we learned about proper excavation methods, we learned how to draw vertical and horizontal unit drawings, analyze stratigraphic layers, and use tools to measure the exact location of our finds. Each day we kept complete journals. We received a break midway through the day and afterwards we would clean or sort artifacts. One day, we were also lucky enough to be shown the soil flotation process at the site. One afternoon we also learned how to survey a field near the excavation site and on another occasion we surveyed an area of the little village that we stayed in.

The daily field excavations provided all of the skills necessary to work on any field project. However, there were also other lecturers and excursions to further our knowledge. After we returned from the site and ate lunch there was a daily lecture, which ranged in discussion from the history of the site, to laboratory methods, and conservation and reconstruction workshops. The lectures brought in professors, museum curators, and professional archaeologists from important institutions in Bulgaria as well as from the international teams working at the site. On days where there is not a lecture we were usually taken to local museums or other sites said that we could learn about other finds in the area.

Finally, each Sunday was spent on an excursion to places such as Plovdiv or the Rose Valley. During each one of these excursions we were exposed to multiple museums and galleries. We were also taken to other archaeological sites and ancient Thracian tombs. The excursions allowed us to gain a greater understanding of the region as a whole, the archaeology throughout the region, and to gain a better understanding of Bulgarian culture. In the cities and towns where we would stop we were also able to explore and purchase souvenirs to take home.

How were accommodations?

When I attended the Emporia Pistiros field school in the summer of 2013 we stayed in a small village called the Vavara, which was located several kilometers from the actual site. We stayed at a local hotel that provided three authentic Bulgarian meals a day. There rooms accommodated 2 to 3 people. Overall they were spacious, clean, in each had its own bathroom. The hotel also had a pool where many students spent the afternoon relaxing after spending all day at the site excavating. The town was also small and friendly. Many afternoons we would walk through town looking at the gardens and buying chocolate in the local shops. The people in the town and in the hotel were extremely friendly and helpful. Transportation was provided to and from the site each day as well.

This year, the accommodations are at "Villa Terres", which is a newly built tourism complex, located in the southern part of the village Karabunar, 8 km from the motorway exit "Trakia" on the way to Velingrad. During the project workdays all participants will be given a lift from the hotel to the site (that is located 14 km away) and back. Based on the experience that I had I am sure that the accommodations will be excellent and well situated as they were in the past.

What are the pros and cons of this Field School? Would you recommend it?

Overall, this field school was excellent. The Balkan Heritage Foundation strives to make the best possible experience for students. They provide tons of opportunities to learn about archaeology field techniques and laboratory methods as well as immersing students into the Bulgarian culture.

The only complaints I have from this field school are in regards to the limited time available. I spent four weeks in Bulgaria working with this field school and that was only enough time to scratch the surface. I was lucky enough to get to work the entire time on a single unit because I learned about the process from the beginning but I would have liked to see where the project went. The skills and techniques that we learned had to be written down in detail because we were unable to practice or review them a lot. I believe this is a problem with most field schools. There is so much that they wanted teach us but limited time in which to perfect the technique. However, it established a firm base from which to continue working. I would have also liked to receive an update or site report from Emporia Pistiros because the site now holds great importance for me.

I would most definitely recommend this field school to anyone whether there are beginners or more advanced. It provides opportunities to learn hands-on enter perfect skills in the field. Although Bulgaria may not seem like a common destination for field schools it was the perfect location to learn a new set of skills among people who truly cared about the field. The Balkan Heritage Field School provided an environment that was both welcoming and friendly. The staff members are more than willing to help you with anything that you need and explain different parts of archaeology. They were extremely outgoing to ensure that you had a good experience and you learned as much as they could possibly provide in the limited time available. This field school provided a breakdown of all of the essential aspects of archaeology. As I have progressed into a graduate program I realize that this experience really prepared me for the field of archaeology. At the same time, is a wonderful environment for archaeology enthusiasts and not just students.

Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

I would note that the earlier someone applies for the field schools there are more discounts on the price of tuition. There also discounts for things such as doing multiple sessions. As is, this field school is extremely affordable and well worth the cost. It caters for beginning students to advanced and archaeology hobbyists or enthusiasts.

1 Comment

Review: Slavia Field School in Mortuary Archaeology

3/6/2015

0 Comments

*This review was written by me, the author of ArchaeoDirt. I attended the Slavia Field School in 2011. This review may be a little outdated, but I hope it will serve as a model for future reviews.

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Slavia Field School in Mortuary Archaeology
LOCATION: Drawsko, Poland
AFFILIATIONS: Foundation for Polish History & Culture, Museum of Czarnków Soil, Slavia Foundation,
Adam Mickiewicz University, State University of New York at Oneonta, SOCRATES European
Education Exchange Program
HISTORY: The Slavia Summer Field School in Archaeology was established in 1998. In 2008, excavations
began in Drawsko, where they continue today.
CURRENT PROJECT: Drawsko is a multiperiod burial site with an extensive cemetery dating to the 17th
century. Students participate in excavation of burials and cremations as well as laboratory work and
osteological analyses.
STAFF: Current staff include both Polish archaeologists as well as professors from SUNY Oneonta,
the University of Newfoundland, and the University of Nevada, Reno.
LENGTH & DATES: Two sessions are offered each summer. This summer (2015), Session 1 runs June
29 - July 22, and Session 2 runs July 23 - August 15.
STUDENTS PER SESSION: ~20
COST PER SESSION: $2,990. Cost includes full room and board, food, transportation to and from the
site, tuition, and equipment. Students are responsible for air fare to and from Poland as well as
personal spending money.
CREDIT AVAILABLE: 6 credits are offered through Adam Mickiewicz University.
APPLICATION PROCESS: Fill out the application form and submit it with a letter of intent. Upon
acceptance, a $500 deposit must be submitted.
DEADLINES: Applications are accepted on a rolling basis until all spaces are filled.

Tell us about your field school experience.

All in all, it was a great experience. Right off the bat they were very organized. Students were directed to a Facebook group where we could meet our fellow field students and coordinate travel to Poland. Our group rendezvoused in Poznan, the nearest major city to Drawsko. It was an easy trip via Frankfurt, and I had no problems connecting with the organizers at a designated hotel. Once the group was together, we took a bus to Drawsko. As a junior in college at the time, this was one of my first times traveling internationally, but everything went off without a hitch. They provided us with good instructions, which helped with the nerves of travel.

Each day, the students were split into a field group and a lab group. They took care to make sure that we each got lots of experience in both area, but they also gave us time to see through each disinterment we worked on from start to finish. Staff were always available for help and I never felt any lack of guidance. They also took the handling of human remains very seriously and made it clear that they expected us to be respectful, which I appreciated.

During the weekends, we had the opportunity to travel and arrange our own excursions. These trips were not an official part of the field school, but the staff was always happy to help with recommendations and logistics. Some students planned trips into Germany, or to major sites around Poland. I went on one trip into Poznan and, on the weekend that happened to coincide with my birthday, we went to Gdansk, a city on the Baltic Sea. The language barrier never posed any major problems, and overall I found Poland easy to navigate.

What skills did you learn?

The focus of the field school was two fold, and included both field and laboratory work. In the field, we learned about grave and burial excavation and documentation, feature recognition, mapping, data collection, topographic survey, artifact recovery, and the disinterment of skeletal materials.

In the lab, we learned about the analysis and curation of skeletal materials. Students were involved in cleaning and inventorying the remains. We also gained experience in creating biological profiles, assessing pathological and traumatic features, and constructing basic demographic information for the population.

I found the field school to be a great opportunity to brush up on my osteology skills. They advertise the program as being geared toward people with no osteology background, but I felt like it was a little more advanced than that. For those of us with prior knowledge, it was a great opportunity to review bones, their features, and how to side them. For those with no knowledge, learning all of that within 4 weeks was tough, but still doable. Regular lab quizzes kept us accountable, but the staff made sure the classes and quizzes were fun rather than just "work." I walked away significantly more confident in my skeletal knowledge.

How were accommodations?

The field school was located in the local school which was, of course, empty over the summer. The school complex included classrooms, a kitchen, a dining and social area, bathrooms, and a gym. Some of the classrooms functioned as dorms, while others were used for our laboratory time and lectures. We slept 6-7 people per room and were provided with air mattresses. All in all, the accommodations were pretty comfortable. The showers often ran out of hot water and 4 weeks on an air mattress gets old, but I was happy to have showers and an air mattress.

What are the pros and cons of this field school? Would you recommend it?

Overall, I would definitely recommend this field school for anyone with an interest in osteology and mortuary archaeology.

First, here are a few of the pros. The archaeology is great. The cemetery we were excavating had no shortage of graves, and they were all fascinating. There were lots of grave goods, and many individuals were buried in strange positions. The staff was also wonderful. The American and Canadian graduate students leading the group were kind and helpful. The Polish archaeologists working on the project were also fantastic. Some spoke more English than others, but all of them were eager to make sure we enjoyed our time in their country. I also really, really appreciated how well organized the field school was. Our schedule was always clear, and there was never any confusion about who was doing what, when.

And now, some of the cons. I wish we had learned a bit more about Polish history and culture. Despite spending 4 weeks there, I left feeling as if I wasn't much better acquainted with Poland than I had been when I arrived. I also didn't feel as integrated into the local community as I would have liked. We rarely interacted with locals who weren't in some way associated with the program, and it felt like there was a bit of a divide between the field school and the village of Drawsko. However, my perception may have been affected by my other experiences- just a few weeks before I went to Poland I had been working on a project in Peru where we felt very connected with the community.

Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

A local catering service brought all our meals, and primarily served traditional Polish food. As a vegetarian, I was excited that they were willing to accommodate vegetarians- but, to any fellow veggies out there, be aware that you will be eating a LOT of fried cheese, potatoes, and bread. Some of the students bought additional snacks at the small shops in Drawsko, but I found the food they provided to be more than enough.

Keep in mind that Drawsko is very, very small and rural. It's beautiful and incredibly quaint, but if you are hoping for constant excitement and things to do you may be disappointed. However, the town does have a small local bar, a few shops and restaurants, and a post office. There is also a marina on the river, and lots of nice places to walk.

Also think about what skills you are hoping to walk away with. This field school is great for brushing up on your osteology skills and learning about the excavation of human remains. However, since the work you are doing is so specific, you may find that you are skipping some of the basic skills you'll need as an archaeologist. In the years since I attended this field school, I have had to back pedal a bit to learn some of the archaeological basics. After Drawsko, I could excavate a grave no problem. However, had I been asked to excavate a basic unit around a thermal feature I would have had some trouble. If you want to dedicate your career to human skeletal remains, then this might not bother you, but keep in mind that developing a broad, well-rounded skill set will help you enormously throughout your career.

The picturesque Polish countryside.

A local church and cemetery in Drawsko.

The Drawsko landscape was beautiful, and the local marina was a great place to hang out.

Our accommodations were a local school. Empty and unused during the summer, it had a kitchen, common areas, and classrooms that became dorms.

We had our meals and socialized in the school "cafeteria."

We slept on air mattresses and shared a room with 5-6 other people.

A local cat named Kevin made the school feel extra homey.

Another school building served as our lab and classroom.

The field site was a short walk away in a local farmers field.

The first day, we got to see what had been done during the previous session.

It was easy to fine the outlines of coffins in the sand.

Our first weekend, we made a trip to Poznan, the nearest big city.

Poznan

We also explored the area around Drawsko, including an abandoned German cemetery.

We also got to take a trip to Gdansk, a city on the Baltic coast of Poland.

Gdansk is famous for Amber Row, where you can buy Baltic amber jewelry for great prices.