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Review: Balkan Heritage's Fresco-Hunting field school

4/9/2015

 
* This review was written by Laura. She received her M.Phil in Digital Humanities and Culture from Trinity College Dublin, and is working on her MSc in International Heritage Visualization from the Glasgow School of Art. She worked as a volunteer with Balkan Heritage in Bulgaria from 2011 - 2013.  

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Balkan Heritage's Fresco-Hunting Photo Research Expedition to Medieval 
Balkan Churches
LOCATION: Bankya, Bulgaria

AFFILIATIONS: New Bulgarian University, Sofia Photography School
CURRENT PROJECT: Students will take place in an expedition to document abandoned medieval churches/chapels and their frescoes.
STAFF: The field school is directed by Ivan Vasilev (MA) and Vassil Tenekedjiev (PhD).
LENGTH & DATES: The standard project runs from May 16 - 30, 2015, while the extended project runs 
from May 16 - June 6, 2015.
COST: 1259 EUR (Approximately $1,409 USD)
CREDIT: Up to 9 credits available
APPLICATION PROCESS: Apply online here.

DEADLINES: April 25, 2015 


Tell us about your field school experience.

I attended the 2011 and 2012 “Fresco-Hunting” Photo Research Expedition to Medieval Balkan Churches with Balkan Heritage, where we documented at-risk medieval Orthodox church frescoes and architecture. Bulgaria (and much of the surrounding Balkans) was occupied by the Ottomans for 500 years during the medieval period (until 1878), and Christianity was more or less outlawed during this time. For this reason, Orthodox churches from this era resemble small, humble houses from the outside. However, in Orthodox tradition their interiors were entirely painted with frescoes and ornately carved wood iconostases which displayed the icons of the church for worship. Hundreds of these churches dot the landscape in western Bulgaria and eastern Serbia (as well as Greece and Macedonia), but due to their remote locations most of them are nearly abandoned and slowly falling into ruin. This field school makes an important contribution to Balkan Heritage by creating records (photographs, architectural plans and drawings, archaeological illustrations, basic condition reports, field notes, etc.) of these frescoes and churches before they are physically lost forever. As a recent art history graduate at the time with special interest in conservation issues, this field school was an exciting learning opportunity I never had during my formal university training, both in terms of subject matter and this kind of on-site, in situ field work.

Once or twice we went on literal hunts for these largely forgotten churches, traipsing around the Bulgarian countryside with maybe just a couple photos from the 1960s, a circle on the map and advice from any local we could find to guide us. It was exciting—a real treasure hunt! We did not always find what we were looking for, but the journeys reinforced the point that these churches are disappearing heritage and it is imperative to document them before they are completely lost to time.   

The field school was based out of Bankya, a suburb of Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital, and most days consisted of field work at a medieval church site in the mountains surrounding Sofia. Field work took place at two or three church sites during each session and a few other similar churches were visited as well. On a typical day we would leave the hotel around 8 or 8:30 and drive to the church we were working at for the day. We would work all day and eat lunch on site. Then we would return to the hotel around 5 or 5:30, have a break and eat dinner around 7 or 8.

The first and last couple days took place at the hotel. Each field school begins with foundational lectures and training before work begins in the field. Not only does this provide you with important theoretical knowledge that underpins future work, it also gives you a good chance to get to know who you are working with in the field. During the last couple days collected data were prepared for presentations and archiving, and some digital illustration techniques were also introduced and practiced.

Each field school has a few free days where you get to visit significant cultural sites and museums as a group with additional time to explore on your own. One free day was spent in Sofia and the other was a day trip to Rila Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I appreciated being able to get to know both the lively urban lifestyle in Sofia and the tranquil beauty of the countryside throughout my trip. I learned so much about Bulgaria during my short stay, and it only made me wish I could stay much longer.

The people I met at the Fresco-Hunting field school, both the instructors from Balkan Heritage and my fellow participants, also made the trip exceptional. The instructors at Balkan Heritage are great because they are extremely knowledgeable yet friendly; they offer help without judgment and also respect participants to carry out their work independently if they are comfortable doing so. I personally know Balkan Heritage only partners with not only experienced experts in their field but also only those they consider as friends. This philosophy is critical because you spend your whole days with these people. Not only do you work together but you eat together, travel together, site see together, even party together! This was a huge benefit because everyone got along so well together, so strong camaraderie developed after just a few days and made the experience very rewarding on a personal level.


What skills did you learn?

I learned and improved on a variety of skills working with Balkan Heritage during the Fresco-Hunting field school from good practice photographic techniques for cultural heritage documentation to collaborative teamwork (an important professional skill to develop in itself). Other skills include, but are not limited to, architectural drawing (elevations, floor plans, interior/exterior features, etc.), basic archaeological illustration techniques (hand-drawn and digital), how to measure and draw architectural structures and features, basic site surveying, knowledge and techniques to identify and interpret Bulgarian Orthodox iconography, knowledge of ongoing conservation issues and threats, field journal notation, etc.


How were accommodations?

Accommodations are in a comfortable hotel in the pleasant town of Bankya. It is a sleepy, but pleasant town with a large picturesque park to wander around as well as a few supermarkets, shops, and nice restaurants within easy walking distance. By field school standards accommodations are luxurious. Rooms are shared between two people and have attached bathrooms. I never had problems with hot water or wifi.

Hot Bulgarian food is served at every meal (except on site when sandwiches and salad are provided) and salad, soup and dessert are also often included. Bulgarian food shares common ancestry with Balkan food including Greek, Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine, so it is quite delicious—especially because of the fresh, local produce in the summer.

I'm a vegetarian and never had problems getting enough good food to eat. I know they will accommodate other dietary restrictions as well (just ask them in advance).


What are the Pros and Cons of this Field School?

Pros:


  • This field school can accommodate any level of experience, so it can be a great introduction to field work yet also provides great opportunities for advanced learners to refine their skills and work with artifacts in situ.  

  • Lessons and instructional materials meet the highest standards. Furthermore, I've never had a problem with anyone's English, so there is no language barrier than could inhibit learning.

  • Learning potential is maximized because you get to work directly with experienced archaeologists and conservators in small groups throughout each day both on and off site.

  • You learn and apply a variety of documentation techniques at each site.

  • It is an unforgettable opportunity to explore new lands and cultures with a great group of people. A variety of excursions are incorporated into the field school program, so you really learn about Balkan culture and its nuances and complexities first-hand. An optional trip to Istanbul is even available!
Potential cons:

  • Bankya is a quiet family-oriented town and it takes at least a half hour (depending on traffic) to get into the center of Sofia where there is good nightlife, cultural events, etc. Public transportation is somewhat sporadic and slow, so taxis are usually necessary to get into town (although they are cheap for European standards, especially in groups). Most days it is quite impractical to get to Sofia, although there are at least two or three group excursions into the city per session.

  • The weather in May is somewhat unpredictable and it can be rainy for extended periods of time—although it can easily be warm and sunny as well.

  • It takes at least 40 minutes (and could be up to an hour and a half) each way to reach church sites since they are in remote locations around the mountains outside Sofia. Therefore, there is less time to work on-site, but I'd say the Bulgarian scenery and fun conversations to be had make up for the extra time in transit.

  • The hotel occasionally hosts events, so I've witnessed a wedding and a high school prom event during my stays. They can get a bit loud, but it's all part of the cultural experience, right?

  • Some days can get quite long since occasionally data must be processed at the hotel after working all day on site. 


Would you recommend it?

Absolutely. Not only will you effectively enhance your practical skills and gain valuable field experience (I've learned more during ten days with Balkan Heritage than entire semesters it seems like), the immersion in Bulgarian culture and history, the many opportunities to explore diverse urban and rural landscapes, and getting to know the people you are lucky enough to share these priceless learning experiences with are really what make your time with Balkan Heritage unforgettable. I've met incredible people from all over the world and still keep in frequent contact with a number of fellow participants. We still fondly reminisce about our field school experiences from several years ago. While you work hard and learn a lot, there is a lot of fun to be had. From my experience Bulgarians really have the work/play ratio figured out and are always ready with a hilarious story to share. I look forward to working with Balkan Heritage in the future, and I highly recommend any of their field schools to anyone who is ready step outside their normal comfort zone, get their hands dirty, and also have some fun!


Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

Simply put, the “Fresco-Hunting” Photo Research Expedition to Medieval Balkan Churches with Balkan Heritage changed my life. And I'm not exaggerating. I moved to Bulgaria for two years to continue volunteering for Balkan Heritage after my first Fresco-Hunting field school, and I am preparing to move back after I finish my master's this fall. I fell in love with Bulgaria after just a few days Fresco-Hunting and my fondness only continues to grow. I honestly wasn't sure what to expect from Bulgaria before my first trip, but I was eager to explore an unfamiliar part of the world, meet new people, learn more, and make a small contribution toward preserving Bulgaria's medieval and Christian Orthodox cultural heritage. I could not ask for a better place to achieve each of these goals and better people to work with. From the first welcome dinner—a feast of Bulgarian cuisine complete with traditional Bulgarian wine and rakia (brandy)—to the final goodbyes, the warm and generous Balkan hospitality of the Balkan Heritage team made me feel right at home, yet also eager to explore and excited to learn. Take a chance and spend a few weeks in Bulgaria with Balkan Heritage. You will not regret it.


If you do decide to go, you can't leave Bulgaria without trying banitsa (a delicious savory pastry made with filo dough and stuffed with feta-like cheese) at least once! Also make sure to stop for homemade yogurt made by local farmers during your group visit to the Rila Monastery (a UNESCO World Heritage Site tucked away in the highest mountain range in the Balkans). It is SO GOOD. Enjoy!

Review: Field School Pozzeveri in Medieval Archaeology and Bioarchaeology

4/9/2015

 
*This review was written by Adam, who received his BS in Anthropology from Ohio State University. He is currently working on his MSC in Paleopathology at Durham University.

FIELD SCHOOL & WEBSITE: Field School Pozzeveri in Medieval Archaeology and Bioarchaeology
LOCATION: Badia Pozzeveri, Lucca, Italy
AFFILIATIONS: The Ohio State University, The University of Pisa
HISTORY: The excavations take place at the church of “San Pietro a Pozzeveri.” Founded in the 11th century, San Pietro was once part of a Camaldolese monastery that thrived during the 12th-13th centuries. This was due to its key location along the Via Francigena, a major trade and pilgrimage route.
CURRENT PROJECT: The 2015 field season will continue the work of previous seasons exploring the modern cemetery and medieval ruins of the site.
STAFF: The project directors include Clark Spencer Larsen, Gino Fornaciari, and Giuseppe Vercellotti. The instructors and area supervisors include Antonio Fornaciari, Francesco Coschino, Letizia Cavallini, Alessandro Cariboni, Alan Farnocchia and Silvia Testi.
LENGTH & DATES: This years field school will take place between June 22-July 31, 2015.
COST: For OSU Students/Ohio Residents, the undergraduate cost is $1,260 and the graduate cost is $2,316. For OSU Students/Non-Ohio Residents, or Non-OSU Students, the undergraduate cost is $3,230 and the graduate cost is $5,600. In addition to tuition fees, students must also pay a $1,800 support fee that will cover housing, meals, excavation, and laboratory equipment.

CREDITS: 3 credits are available through OSU. Non-OSU students may seek credit recognition through their academic institution.
APPLICATION PROCESS: Apply online at http://www.fieldschoolpozzeveri.org/apply.html
DEADLINE: June 1st, however applications are reviewed as soon as they are received. Suitable applications are accepted immediately


Tell us about your field school experience.

Overall my experience at Field School Pozzeveri was exceptional. Once accepted, I was put into contact with the Program Coordinator and began the booking process for my travels to Altopascio. I was recommended various airports to fly into (Pisa/ Florence) and reassured that upon landing a member of the staff would be there to transport students to the site. In addition, a Facebook page was created so that students could meet and coordinate travel with one another.

Upon the first day of excavation students were given an overview of the site history, previous excavation results and introduced to the staff. Students were then separated into the different excavation areas and met their individual supervisors. Each area supervisor has vast knowledge of excavation techniques and provides ample instructions for students new to archaeology and bioarchaeology. A normal excavation day runs from around 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. with an hour lunch break at the site.

Additionally students attend various lab sessions in that run in parallel with the excavation. These labs include cleaning, labeling and analyzing skeletal remains and artifacts, as well as survey and GIS recording. Lab sessions involve small groups so that students receive ample one on one attention for complete understanding of the material.

Lectures are also given once or twice a week depending on the weather. These lectures cover advances in archaeology along with various directors’ and instructors’ research.

During the weekends the field school is not in session, giving the students the opportunity to rest or travel around the surrounding area. Students are encouraged to take siteseeing trips to other cities. Altopascio is located in the heart of Tuscany so there are many beautiful places to visit and sights to see including the cities of Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Sienna and Genoa. The field school is separated into two terms with a midterm break from July 9-13 giving students additional time to travel to the further reaches of the country. A popular trip among students is visiting Pompeii or Rome.

Upon acceptance students receive a reading list that is required to be complete before arriving to the field school. The readings include information involving site history, topics in bioarchaeology, stratigraphy and GIS. There is also a midterm and a final exam to assess student’s knowledge and understanding of the readings and excavation techniques. Final grades are given based on participation in excavation (40%), lab exercises (20%), group discussions/ presentation (5%), midterm and final examination (10% each) and overall conduct throughout ones time at the field school (15%).


What skills did you learn?

The field school provides instruction in both bioarchaeological and archaeological excavation techniques. The focus is on learning proper archaeological theory and methodology in addition to some bioarchaeological excavation techniques. In the field we gained practical experience in archaeological methods including burial excavation/ documentation, restoration/ analysis of human skeletal remains, survey and artifact recovery techniques. In the lab we gained experience in mapping through GIS as well as proper skeletal data collection and restoration. The rich history of the site as well as instructors and directors who are leading researchers in their field provides an unmatched opportunity to gain hands on archaeological and bioarchaeological field and lab experience.


How were the accommodations?

The field school is located in the local elementary school. Students sleep in the gym and extra classrooms. There is a kitchen, dining and various social areas where students have full access to the facilities. There are two bathrooms (Male and Female) each with 4 separate showers. This was nice because students could get in and showered quickly and efficiently before dinner. All students are provided a cot to sleep on. Overall I would say the accommodations are great, there is plenty of space within and around the building. Another advantage of being at the local school is that you are within walking distance of the excavation site.


What are the pros and cons of this field school? Would you recommend it?

I would definitely recommend this field school to anyone interested in medieval archaeology and bioarchaeology. It is an unparalleled opportunity to get hands on excavation experience with leading research members of these fields.

Pros: The site history and archaeological experience is great. You have the chance to learn many useful methods of archaeological excavation and data recording. The labs provide further understanding and knowledge in the field as well. Over the years many extremely interesting artifacts have been found including a bell forge, gold lace (surrounding an infants head), victims of the cholera epidemic encased in lime, pottery, and various other grave goods. The staff is fantastic. They are extremely personable and truly want to provide further understanding of archaeology. There is little to no language barrier, all of the Italians speak English very well. However, I would definitely recommend learning some Italian for weekend traveling. The location of the field school itself is another pro. The Tuscany region of Italy is one of the most beautiful places in the world and I would definitely tell anyone planning to attend this field school to get out and travel as much as possible during free time.

Cons: There are really little to no cons to this field school. The main con that was brought up by students was the issue of working in areas with skeletal remains. Many students come to the field school thinking they are guaranteed that they will be excavating skeletal remains, however, this is an archaeological and bioarchaeological field school and it is clearly stated that depending on what area you are assigned you may not excavate remains. That does not mean that you will not work with skeletal remains, there are many opportunities such as lab. The lab supervisors are also always willing to accept help cleaning and cataloging remains during ones spare time.


Anything else you think readers should know about this field school?

Altopascio is a small rural town about an hour and a half from Florence. Many of the people in the area do not speak English so there will definitely be a language barrier. However most of the locals are extremely welcoming and will bring fruit and water to the site for the students. Knowing any Italian will make the townspeople that much more excited to meet you. The owner of the local pizza shop may even throw you a free drink if you order in Italian. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all proved during the week and mostly consist of traditional Italian food. Meaning you will be eating a lot of pasta. Breakfast is usually light including a pastry and coffee at the local coffee shop/pub. Lunch is typically a sandwich or two plus fruit and something to drink (other than water). Dinner is usually the most substantial meal of the day including multiple courses. There will always be pasta or some type of carb, then a meat dish, and fruit or salad. This was more than enough food to keep me full throughout my time excavating but there is always the local grocery where you can stop and grab post excavation snacks and anything else you may need. The field school is also more than able to accommodate those with food allergies as well as vegetarians as long as staff is told of dietary issues in advance.

Overall I would say that this field school gives one a window into the Italian lifestyle of working hard, eating until you cant move and spending time with good people. It is as much a cultural experience as it is an archaeological learning experience. I would recommend anyone planning to attend the field school to be completely open to all new learning experiences and ask as many questions as you can think of. I have said it over and over that these instructors and site supervisors are leading the field and to have one on one experience with them is priceless. If you take a particular interest in something then don’t be afraid to approach and ask for further guidance and share ideas with the supervisors. This field school provides students with the one of the most well-rounded skill sets which will be essential throughout ones career.


    DISCLAIMER
    Each review is the product of one persons experience during one field season. With different staff & students and new research questions, a field school can change a lot from year to year. Use these reviews to guide your decision, but remember that none of them are by any means the final word on a field school.

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